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jdm d15b block with z6 head

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Old 23-Oct-2015, 08:57 PM
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jdm d15b block with z6 head

So I have been searching for days now to the point where i been online almost every min of the day. I cant find a freakn solution to my problem and its drivin me crazy. My problem is i hav a 96 civic dx with a jdm d15b block i recently bought a complete z6 head, had it milled and swapped it on. p28 ecu
D15z1 water pump, timing belt
D16z6 headgasket, tensioner, sparkplug wires, dizzy, fuel injectors, map sensor
Jdm d15b spark plugs
I cant find an answer to timing issues. I just picked up a y8 cam gear cuz sumone told me it would fix my issue but i also read that thats only true if its a usdm block lik the b7/z6 mini me i just want a definite answer. It sounds lik **** right now and i jus really need to get it up and going.
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Old 25-Oct-2015, 01:21 PM
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I suggest indexing the cam with the help of the cam gear you bought. Not sure about the specifics of this engine build. Beyond that...

Lookup d-series.org those guys will know eacg of these motors inside out.
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Old 25-Oct-2015, 04:35 PM
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Thanks for the reply i think i might have figured it out the y8 cam gear is supposebly 4.75 degrees retarded and i have a z6 cam. Point being since im putting a z6 head on a 1.5 block it shud compensate for the 1/2 tooth im off the only thing im double thinkin now is i got the head milled and the guy jus wrote new head height 3.665 and idk what that means can u by chance give me a clue to what that means?? The reason i ask is cuz i read milling the head causes the cam to be retarded .12 thousands=1 degree is this right? Thanks again
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Old 26-Oct-2015, 10:54 PM
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3.665 is the height of the head from the bottom where the head gasket mates, to the top where the valve cover gasket sits. I don't know the exact number off the top of my head but I think it's pretty close to what you have. Was the head milled or just planed? The later meaning that they only took off enough to make it true again.

Look into how to properly index your cam. Kinda a pain since the motor is installed already, this is something you should have done before that, sorry not trying to sound condescending if it reads that way but it's the truth. Basically you need a cam index tool, specs for your cam, and the timing belt exposed. Not sure if you can fit the cam tool to the engine while it's in the car, maybe with the mount off and the engine tilted up or down. You need to ignore the timing marks, zero the cam tool and use a long screwdriver or similar down the #1 spark plug hole to find the true top dead centre. Mark that with the cam tool, then you need to know where "0" is on the cam, this is why you need the cam specs, you need to know what lift you should be at when at TDC. Set the cam gear now so the inside is lined up with the motors timing marks, you belt is now timed to your motor, reinstall the timing belt with the crank to your new TDC mark found by the cam card. No need for a formula like .12 thou = 1 degree, I'm not sure that method is accurate, I'd think a bigger or smaller cam gear would change that so it can't be a set ratio like that for all motors.
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Old 29-Oct-2015, 02:17 AM
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Thanks man i appreciate your help so i finally figured it out. I ended up having to take the crank pulley off completely and redoing the whole timing belt and having to use the pm3b cam gear instead of the y gear. The y gear with the z6 cam made the timing way too retarded. I guess the y gear is only for usdm 1.5 blocks? The timing is still half a tooth off but now i can at least set the crank 16* btdc and it sounds so much better. No matter how i installed the timing belt it was always half a tooth off on the cam side so i said **** it lol. I am limited on money and tools so that indexing my cam thing was not gona work hopefully the way i did it doesn hurt it.
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Old 31-Oct-2015, 04:37 PM
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well now that you have it that close, find the correct adjustable timing gear and dial it in. Half a tooth isn't much, maybe at the very least do the part where I mentioned dropping a long screwdriver or something into the spark plug to see where TDC crank is exactly. Then chose if you should be half a tooth advanced or retarded. Otherwise you could be basically a full tooth out. Still not exactly huge but still, best to make it as close to perfect as possible.

Sorry, I'm sure you're doing things pretty well you sound like you know what you're talking about and have definitely been doing your homework but when you say set the crank to btdc... do you mean that you're setting the timing with a timing light on the crank while moving the distributor until the crank lines up with the timing marks on the belt cover at 16* btdc? The other mark on the crank pulley would be 0 but more accurate is to have the cover off and use the marks on the crank gear with the arrow on the oil pump.

Good work so far on getting the car running better either way!
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Old 31-Oct-2015, 05:23 PM
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Thanks man i appreciate your help!! And yea i put the screwdriver in the #1 cylinder to check top dead center. I also meant i timed it with the timing light to 16* btdc sorry forgot to say that. I read sumwer that ppl made 400+ hp being half a tooth so that makes me feels better. And i did alot of research b4 i attempted to do the swap.
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