the Ef guide - auto to manual
#1
the Ef guide - auto to manual
Tools you will need
socket set must contain 17mm and 10 mm 12 pt sockets
flat head screw driver
star screwdriver
extensions as many as you can find
a jack or two works best i used 2
jack stands
vise grips
ball joint separator
hammer
1 1/8 wrench
1 1/4 wrench
Parts you will need
tranny
shift linkage
pedal assembly
clutch cable
lower starter bolt
contrary to what everyone says auto and manual starters are the same just for MT the lower starter bolt is a longer one than in AT
flywheel and clutch
flywheel mounting bolts
rear engine mount complete
passenger side mount complete
Modifications inside the car
remove the automatic shifter most likley the bolts will be rusted so use vice grips/12mm wrench to remove them !!
remove the steering coloum take it right off at the steering rack as you need to drop the steering rack later
remove the rear most heat duct should just pull out
there is 6 bolts holding the pedal assembly in there undo them
undo the gas pedal from the assembly and leave it attached to the throttle cable (dpfi and mpfi have different gas pedal hookups)
re install the pedal assembly
have no worry over the clutch sensor!!!! not a big deal !!!!! but hook up the brake light one !!!!
there is two wires attached to the auto shifter in there own plug in my car both wires were black with white strip cross them they are the wires for auto neutral lock or wire it into the new pedal assembly !!
under the hood !!!!!!!
take off the auto tranny cooler lines
take off the shift cable
undo the VSS
un plug all lock up solenoids (i had 2 only one was hooked up though)
put the car up on stands
undo the rear engine mount FROM THE TRANNY
remove the front engine mount completly
remove both tires
undo both lower ball joints
undo the lower strut tower nut but do not remove the bolt yet
undo the 1 1/4 1 1/8 nut on the drive axel and pry the drive axels out
remove the passenger side mount FROM THE FRAME
LEAVE THE DRIVERS SIDE ONE CONNECTED DONT TOUCH IT
remove the old tranny don't forget the bolt on the back side !!!!!!!!
remove the old tranny should fall off with some gently prying
remove the torque converter the bolts are on the rear of it you need to undo them from under the car
remove the torque converter mounting plate with the 12 pt 17 mm
install the flywheel use the MT flywheel bolts as the AT ones are different
install the clutch and clutch basket????? if you don't have a clutch alignment tool just do it by eye i did
reinstall starter before you reinstall tranny!!!!!
install the tranny !!!!
install drive axels and do the suspension back up all together
undo the 4 bolts holding the rear crossmember in the one with the steering rack in it it will drop like 8 inches you can remove the rear engine mount from it and install the new one
note( may be easier ot do it you drop the mid pipe or just undo the header and let it drop so the pipe is lower )
bolt the cross member back up
double check everything is tight !!!!!!
drill two holes for your shifter linkage mount and bolt it in
as for the clutch cable i was lucky enough to have a nice hole in the firewall to the dr side of the brake booster !!!!!
i think i have forgotten some steps or this could be refined and added to but this is the best for now hope it helps someone !!!!!!
socket set must contain 17mm and 10 mm 12 pt sockets
flat head screw driver
star screwdriver
extensions as many as you can find
a jack or two works best i used 2
jack stands
vise grips
ball joint separator
hammer
1 1/8 wrench
1 1/4 wrench
Parts you will need
tranny
shift linkage
pedal assembly
clutch cable
lower starter bolt
contrary to what everyone says auto and manual starters are the same just for MT the lower starter bolt is a longer one than in AT
flywheel and clutch
flywheel mounting bolts
rear engine mount complete
passenger side mount complete
Modifications inside the car
remove the automatic shifter most likley the bolts will be rusted so use vice grips/12mm wrench to remove them !!
remove the steering coloum take it right off at the steering rack as you need to drop the steering rack later
remove the rear most heat duct should just pull out
there is 6 bolts holding the pedal assembly in there undo them
undo the gas pedal from the assembly and leave it attached to the throttle cable (dpfi and mpfi have different gas pedal hookups)
re install the pedal assembly
have no worry over the clutch sensor!!!! not a big deal !!!!! but hook up the brake light one !!!!
there is two wires attached to the auto shifter in there own plug in my car both wires were black with white strip cross them they are the wires for auto neutral lock or wire it into the new pedal assembly !!
under the hood !!!!!!!
take off the auto tranny cooler lines
take off the shift cable
undo the VSS
un plug all lock up solenoids (i had 2 only one was hooked up though)
put the car up on stands
undo the rear engine mount FROM THE TRANNY
remove the front engine mount completly
remove both tires
undo both lower ball joints
undo the lower strut tower nut but do not remove the bolt yet
undo the 1 1/4 1 1/8 nut on the drive axel and pry the drive axels out
remove the passenger side mount FROM THE FRAME
LEAVE THE DRIVERS SIDE ONE CONNECTED DONT TOUCH IT
remove the old tranny don't forget the bolt on the back side !!!!!!!!
remove the old tranny should fall off with some gently prying
remove the torque converter the bolts are on the rear of it you need to undo them from under the car
remove the torque converter mounting plate with the 12 pt 17 mm
install the flywheel use the MT flywheel bolts as the AT ones are different
install the clutch and clutch basket????? if you don't have a clutch alignment tool just do it by eye i did
reinstall starter before you reinstall tranny!!!!!
install the tranny !!!!
install drive axels and do the suspension back up all together
undo the 4 bolts holding the rear crossmember in the one with the steering rack in it it will drop like 8 inches you can remove the rear engine mount from it and install the new one
note( may be easier ot do it you drop the mid pipe or just undo the header and let it drop so the pipe is lower )
bolt the cross member back up
double check everything is tight !!!!!!
drill two holes for your shifter linkage mount and bolt it in
as for the clutch cable i was lucky enough to have a nice hole in the firewall to the dr side of the brake booster !!!!!
i think i have forgotten some steps or this could be refined and added to but this is the best for now hope it helps someone !!!!!!
#2
I am in the process of one on another 4g, Ill add stuff as needed, ie: drill holes for shift linkage, coverup old autoshifter holes with metal, and use plastic to stop heat from entering cabin.
#11
camshaft position sensor
i have a 2004 honda civic ex 1.7 5 speed , i need to replace my camshaft position sensor but cant seem to locate it, i have google it multiple times and it shows a diagram showing a 2001 and 2003 only, that its by the timing chain but then another diagram of the exact same picture shows it being the crankshaft position sensor. I am a female trying to fix my car, it keeps dying and bogging down and am trying to do this myself, i already replaced the torque converter on it and i had the codes ran and the camshaft postion sensor popped up plus the catalytic converter, would the camshaft position sensor cause it to keep dying? And where is it located exactly ?
#12
Not sure why you replaced the torque converter but that's not really related to the cam sensor. Also your car has a timing belt, not a chain. The crank sensor is at the bottom hidden by the crank pulley. Just to the right (closer to the fire wall) of the engine mount there should be a wire going into the timing cover, that's the cam sensor.
Not 100% sure if you can get that off without removing the cam sprocket, but if it needs to come off, then this might be a good time to replace the belt and water pump
Not 100% sure if you can get that off without removing the cam sprocket, but if it needs to come off, then this might be a good time to replace the belt and water pump
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