Originally Posted by ahmed_17
first off, make sure you actually need to replace the wheel bearing. do this by grabbing your wheel at 12 oclock and 6 oclock while the car is jacked up. with both hands on the wheel at top and bottom, wiggle in and out, if there is movement or it feels loose then your wheel bearing has "play". other ways of telling are to listen for the bearing being noisy (spin wheel while jacked up), having a licensed technician examine it.
Tools you'll need:
- 10mm, 17mm and 32mm sockets and wrench
- torque wrench
- impact wrench (optional)
- philps screw driver
- jack stands
- new wheel bearing
- hydraulic press
- plypar (optional)
- 3 cotter pins (for each front wheel)
-impact driver (optional)
To replace your wheel bearing, basically we gotta remove the knuckle from your car. The following diagram illustrates the three nuts (A, B and C) that need to be removed to set knuckle free for those who want to know what your taking off..: lower balljoint, upper balljoint, outer tie-rod
1) If possible, remove the centre caps from your wheels in order for the 32mm axel nut to become visible and crack that baby loose. If you don't have centre caps or if this isn't possible for some other reason, don't worry, you can do this later when the car is raised and wheels are removed. Note: It's a bitch to remove this axel nut because it's in there really tight, so you'll have to put some muscle into it. Use either a long wrench or an impact wrench. I used both! a breaker-bar would be easiest/fastest if air tools aren't abailable
2) Raise the car and put it on jack stands. If you couldn't remove the axel nut for the above reasons, do it now. block the wheels
3) We will proceed by taking off the brake caliper. There are two 17mm screws that mount the caliper to the knuckle. Remove them
4) After the caliper is off, remove the brake rotor. There are two philip screws that hold it in... you may need to use an impact wrench if you've never removed them before. use an impact driver with proper philips head attachment on it
This is what everything should look like now... caliper, rotor and axle nut removed
5) Now we need to take off the three castle nuts presented in this diagram. They all have cotter pins which also need to be removed.
6) If your car has ABS, you will need to remove the sensor from the knuckle. There are four 10mm bolts.
7) Now CAREFULLY take out the knuckle. You may need to use a prybar for the castle nut under the lower ball joint. The axle should slide right out. If it doesn't, tap it LIGHTLY with a hammer.[/I] do not hit the threaded part of the balljoint with a hammer. you can smack the knuckle itself where it meets the balljoint, just be carefull not to damage the bj
You can see the wheel bearing by turning the knuckle backwards
8) In order to take out the wheel bearing, you will need to first press out the hub and then after removing the c-clamp, you can also press out the wheel bearing. I had a friend do this for me since I don't have a hydralic press. I've seen some people use a hammer and a few large washers to do this. Part Source or some other automotive shops also have a tool you can usually rent to do this. do NOT use a hammer and washers... ever
The following is taken from a thread on HT explaining how to remove the hub and wheel bearing manually and pressing in the new bearing
Here is my new bearing purchased from Honda and installed. On that note, I would recommend buying OEM parts because I am doing this to replace an aftermarket wheel bearing I got about 1.5 yrs ago.
9) Install the knuckle and ABS sensor following the steps you used to take it out (in reverse order).
10) Don't forget to make sure everything is tightened to spec. Also make sure you use NEW cotter pins for the three castle nuts you removed.
use a torque wrench and always tighten to oem specifications
A - 29-35 ft-lbs
B - 33 ft-lbs
C - 36-43 ft-lbs
11) Install your rotors and brake calipers. My mounting bolts for the calipers had to be tightened to 40 ft-lbs, but I think the stock ones should be around 80. use anti-seize on the caliper bracket bolts, and lock-tite on the caliper bolts. both these prevent bolts backing off, and make it simpler to remove the next time
12) Tighen the axel nut, making sure the pivot sits in the correct spot (You will need to push it in using a hammer and something that's not too sharp). Note: I tightened the axle nut after taking the car off jack stands since it needs to be on really tight. You can also have a friend apply the brakes while you tighten it (when the car is still raised).torque the axle nut to the SPECIFIC torque spec. then hammer in a new indent to the nut wherever the slit in the axle is (use a hammer and punch/chisel
13) Put the wheels back on, lower the car from the jack stands and you're all done! Now go for a test drive!torque your lug nuts!!! 100 ft pounds