Another great write up i found a long time ago.. I thought some people running the powerless d16y7 like me and with a low budget may be interested in this swap ( hey at least its cheap and you gain some hp and VTEC!!)
The stock motor is the D16y7. It's a 1.6 SOHC ( Singer Over Head Cam ) motor. I used the D16y8 head, intake manifold, throttle body, fuel rail, and injectors. The D16y8 motor is from a 1996-2000 Honda Civic EX.
Below are the specs on the individual motors.
D16Y7 = 1.6L SOHC non-VTEC 96-00 Civic CX/DX/LX 106hp
D16Y8 = 1.6L SOHC VTEC 96-00 Civic EX 127hp
Now, from what I have read the D16y8 block is the same as the D16y7 block. So, off hand, you are bolting on 21 HP. Not to mention w/ the compression change there should be some added HP. To top it off, you get the beloved V-Tec. I did this swap w/ less then $500.00. Now, I kept the D16y7 tranny for the time, but in a few months I'm geting the D16y8 tranny.
Now that we talked about the swap a bit, let's get to the write up. Just remember, there are differnt ways to do this swap. I may have used parts that you may not want to, or may not have done something you may want to. The parts in my list is parts that I used for what I wanted.
What I used to do this swap...
-D16y8 Intake Manifold
-D16y8 Throttle Body
-D16y8 Fuel Rail
-D16y8 Fuel Injectors
-P28 ECU ( May also use P2P ECU, I'll get into that later )
-An Intake Device. ( The new setup will put the Throttle Body on it's side, not up in the air. )
-Intake manifold Gasket
-Throttle Body Gasket
-Exhaust Manifold Gasket
-Oil + Filter
-96-00 Honda Civic EX Spark Plugs
-Some Wire, and Wire Connectors
-Colored 3M Tape to mark Fuel Line, Vacume Lines, and Coolant Lines
-A box of Zip Lock Bags and a Sharpie. That way you know what bolts go where.
Let's start by removing the old head, intake manifold, etc.
Start by disconnecting the negative battery termanil. ( If you have a Strut Tower Bar, I would recommend removing that now. ) Next, jack the car up, and put it securely on jack stands. (It's not completely needed to be in the air, but it's alot easier to work on it that way IMO.) Drain your oil, and coolant at this time. You may also want to change your oil filter while you are there. After they are done draining, put the plugs back in.
Now, to the engine bay. Remove your air filter system. Next, unplug your fuel injectors. ( You may want to number them w/ tape. 1 2 3 4 ) Unbolt the fuel rail from the intake manifold. ( You may want to get some kind of catching device. You will lose some fuel when you pull out the injectors. For example, I took a beer can, and cut it in half and used the bottom as my catch can. ) Pull the injectors out, and unbolt the fuel line to the fuel rail. Catch as much fuel as you can from the line. Swing it up, and out of the way. Now would also be a good time to remove the spark plugs.
It's important to have the motor in TDC. ( Top Dead Center )
This is how I have always done it. It may not be the best way, but it's my way. Do at your own risk, and do it carefully.
Take a longer screw driver, and put it in cylender #1. Turn the crank clockwise until you see the screw driver slowly rise up. Turn it until you see it move down into the motor a tad bit, and STOP! Back it up counter clockwise a tad. Then BINGO! TDC. Look on the cam gear, and you should see that the word "UP" is up.
Here comes a part that may be a pain in your *** for hours. Removing the anoying crank pulley. We need to take this off, to remove the timing belt. First, take the drivers side wheel off. Now, if you have an air impact wrench, try that to break it loose. If you have no go w/ that, as I did, here is a solution.
Take a strap wrench. Lay the strap over the crank pulley, but still have it loose. Next, lay some sand paper between the strap, and the pulley itself. This will let it have a lot stronger grip. Have someone hold the strap wrench, while you crank the **** out of that bolt w/ a break bar. Best of luck, but it will come off.
Finally, remove the spark plug wire, and swing them to the side. Remove the throttle cable, and swing it out of the way as well. Now, take off the valve cover, giving you access to remove the top of the timing belt cover.
Remove the top timing belt cover. Remove the crank pulley to get the lower timing belt cover off. Now, I do believe you need to remove the one motor mount on top to swing the timing belt off. Be sure to put a brace under the motor as a "safty". Finally, remove the timing belt.
( Yea, that's me. )
Now, unhook all the connectors on the intake manifold. You will notice that the IACV ( Idle Air Control Valve ) is on the throttle body for the D16y7 motor. I would highly sugest that you mark that plug. It needs to be alterd in the future to work right.
Now, unhook all vacume lines, coolant lines, and fuel lines. BE SURE to mark them what they are. It may be a pain in the ***, but if you mix up a line on the install, it will cause problems. Once everything is unhooked, and marked, it is almost time to lift the head out.
Remove the Dizzy ( Distributor ) from the head, and lay it aside. Unhook all connectors and hoses from the head. Unbolt your Exhaust Manifold, and pull it out away from the motor. ( There are some brackets under the car for the exhaust you may need to remove to do so. )
Double check all hoses, lines, and connectors are removed from the intake manifold, and head. If so, unbolt the 10 head studs from the head. Lay them aside. ( I would advise you to keep them in the same order to use them again. Unless you buy new which a lot of people would advise you to do since the bolts do stretch. Me, I just gave them an extra 5lbs of torque when tightening them back up. ) Now lift the head and intake manifold straight up, and remove it from the motor. ( It's a good idea to have some news paper laying down to place it on, or a box, etc. )
Now, look either on the block, or on the bottom of the head. There are 2 little pieces of tube that goes in the block to line up the head. Make sure they are in the block.