I do believe this is what they call "cross hatch" right? 107xxx miles at this time, still there from the factory.
Lay your new head gasket down, and make sure it's right!! I do believe it says "UP" on one side. Once it is, spray copper spray on the gasket. It will help seal. Now, carefully, lay the new head on. Make sure everything is lined up, it will fit nicely.
Now, put in the head studs. Remember, there is a certain order they must be tightend in, along w/ a certain amount of pounds of torque. If you have a Haynes manual, it has the information. Your owners manual may as well. If not, spend 10 bucks on the Haynes manual.
( My buddy John )
Once the studs are in to the correct lb of torque, you may want to crank up the lbs of torque another 5 lbs. I did, do to the fact I reused head studs when you arn't supposed to. My head does not leak, and everything is fine and has been for months now.
Now, put the dizzy back on the head, and bolt up the exhaust manifold. Be sure that the D16y8 cam gear is on TDC. Make sure the "UP" is up. Put the new timing belt back on, and timing belt covers. Also put the motor mount back on. Next put on the crank pulley.
Double check your work, and everything should be TDC. Check it just as we did before.
Hook up all vacume lines, fuel lines, and coolant lines to the proper locations. ( Just as they were before you took them off. ) Hook up the fuel injectors, put on the valve cover, throttle cable, etc. Also be sure to add the correct amount of oil and coolent.
Everything should be on now. You will notice that you don't have a plug for V-tec, the V-tec Oil Pressure Sensor, and that the plug for your IACV won't fit.
It is time that you have to run some wires yourself. That includes running them to the ECU.
Speaking of ECU, let's talk about that a bit.
You have some choices here. You can use the P2P, P28, or even the P2E you currently have. The P2P and P2E are OBD2, and the P28 is OBD1. Below is a bit of information about the 3 ECU's listed.
P28 : 92-95 OBD-1 Civic Si/Ex
P2P : 96-00 OBD-2 Civic EX Coupe
P2E : 96-00 OBD-2 Civic DX Coupe
Of course, the P28 and P2P are V-tec computers. That is the best way to go. However, some people chose to use the P2E, and just have V-tec activate via RPM Switch. The choice is yours.
Alot of people use the P28. They say it's easy to program, etc. If you use a P28, your going to change to OBD1. Doing so, you will need to buy a conversion harness. ( If you do, becareful. 96-98 are differnt then 99-00. So get the right one. ) Running OBD1 will only look for 1 O2 sensor, and no knock sensor.
If you get the P2P ECU, you will run both O2 sensors, you won't need the harness, but you will need to purchase and install a Knock Sensor. Since I chose to use the P28, I do not know much more information about this.
Okay, let's talk about the IACV. On the D16y7 motor, the IACV is on the Throttle Body. On the D16y8 motor the IACV is on the back of the intake manifold. This is where you need to do some of your own wiring. Take 2 pieces of wire, and add male connectors to both ends, and female connectors to the other 2 ends.
Hook the female wire ends to the D16y8 IACV. ( Make sure you bend them right to fit on tight ) Now, use the male ends to plug into the D16y7 IACV plug. Be sure to disregard the orange wire, as it will not be needed. Check the diagram included to compare the wires so you know which you will need to hook to what. Honestly, if you can get the D16y8 IACV plug and cut it w/ a few inches of wire on it, that's your best bet. If not, you just gotta play w/ it until you get the wires on correct. You got a 50/50 chance the first time.
Now, still on the IACV. You gotta move some wires around on the ECU. There is a diagram for this as well.
I recently just found this picture, and to the guys on ff-squad, mad props and thank you!!
At ECU plug A, move pin A14 to empty pin A12. Then unpin A13, and leave it unpined. It is not needed.
Click this bar to view the full image.
Now for wiring up V-tec. Take a wire, and run it from the V-tec solenoid to the ECU. Plug it into pin A8. Now, on the V-tec Oil Pressure Sensor there are 2 wires. One is a ground, and the other goes to the ECU. Again, I don't have the plug, so I can't really tell which is ground and which is not. Ground one. The other, run it to the ECU to C15.
If V-tec doesn't engage for you, switch the wires around on the pressure sensor.
Sorry I can't give the "Exact" on those 2 parts. The IACV and the V-tec Solenoid. It's just I didn't have the plugs. There are only 2 wires on each, so it is 50% chance of geting it right the first time.
I believe that is it. Use this write up as a guide, and only at your own risk. Thanks for reading, and I hope I have helped some of you.