D.I.Y ---- Garage Oil change w/ PCV valve replacement (D16Y7)
16-Aug-2008, 03:23 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 459
D.I.Y ---- Garage Oil change w/ PCV valve replacement (D16Y7)
In my past thread I said that I will try to post a D.I.Y on my first ever oil change so here it is. I also changed the PCV valve since it's already out there.
***pls use jack stands in combination of the actual jack for safety***
***always have someone to standby while you're under the car , just in case something wrong happen someone can call help***
materials: (all these things you can buy at CT)
jack
pair of jack stands
creeper
4L oil (5w30 or 10w30)
Oil filter.
pcv valve
long nose pliers
17mm wrench <-- forgot what i used but i think this is it LOL
flat screw driver
drain pan & funnel
wheel stoppers
steps:
1. place the wheel stoppers at the back tires then Jack the car to your desired height and place the jack stands
2. locate the drain plug. (its in the driver side area , just about the same distance with the wheels)
3. place the drain pan under it then unscrew the bolt with the 13mm wrench (carefully remove the plug so you wont get dirty)
4. when no more oil is left. locate the oil filter and remove. (leave the drain pan under while removing the oil filter as more oil will follow.) I used my hands to unscrew the oil filter. (the oil filter is located just above the drain plug) there's that cheap motomaster filter that MR. LUBE uses
5. after unscrewing the oil filter, this is what it looks like...
6. after all the oil is drained out. locate the pcv valve. (the PCV valve is just about above the oil filter) you will need a flat screw driver to pry it and and then a long nose to take it out, or you could use your hands. you will need to squeeze your hands into tight spaces
7. if you are having trouble removing the pcv valve, you can pull the hose downward past all the tight spaces like i did in this picture. (be carefull not to puncture the rubber hose as this will create a lot of problems) you might need a wire or something to pry the hose from the PCV cause the hose might be sticking to the pcv. (rubber to rubber + heat = glued together)
8. after placing the PCV back on you could now screw the oil filter back to palce and the drain bolt w/ washer as well. (DO NOT OVER SCREW as this might cause a lot of trouble. Just turn until you feel the washer touch the surface then turn a just little more, same with the oil filter.)
theres my new fram oil filter (part number PH3593A)
9. put some of your 5w30 or 10w30 oil (use funnel) then measure afterwards using the dip stick and your good to go. (don't forget to put the oil cap back on)
10. put the old oil back in the new oil jug and dispose off properly. there are free drop off locations a.k.a recycling centers around the city or just drop them @ night @ walmart.
now you can sit back and watch the Olympics while you drink some cold beer!!!
***this D.I.Y is made possible with the advice of some TCC members and ADMIN.***
enjoy,
hula_balu
***pls use jack stands in combination of the actual jack for safety***
***always have someone to standby while you're under the car , just in case something wrong happen someone can call help***
materials: (all these things you can buy at CT)
jack
pair of jack stands
creeper
4L oil (5w30 or 10w30)
Oil filter.
pcv valve
long nose pliers
17mm wrench <-- forgot what i used but i think this is it LOL
flat screw driver
drain pan & funnel
wheel stoppers
steps:
1. place the wheel stoppers at the back tires then Jack the car to your desired height and place the jack stands
2. locate the drain plug. (its in the driver side area , just about the same distance with the wheels)
3. place the drain pan under it then unscrew the bolt with the 13mm wrench (carefully remove the plug so you wont get dirty)
4. when no more oil is left. locate the oil filter and remove. (leave the drain pan under while removing the oil filter as more oil will follow.) I used my hands to unscrew the oil filter. (the oil filter is located just above the drain plug) there's that cheap motomaster filter that MR. LUBE uses
5. after unscrewing the oil filter, this is what it looks like...
6. after all the oil is drained out. locate the pcv valve. (the PCV valve is just about above the oil filter) you will need a flat screw driver to pry it and and then a long nose to take it out, or you could use your hands. you will need to squeeze your hands into tight spaces
7. if you are having trouble removing the pcv valve, you can pull the hose downward past all the tight spaces like i did in this picture. (be carefull not to puncture the rubber hose as this will create a lot of problems) you might need a wire or something to pry the hose from the PCV cause the hose might be sticking to the pcv. (rubber to rubber + heat = glued together)
8. after placing the PCV back on you could now screw the oil filter back to palce and the drain bolt w/ washer as well. (DO NOT OVER SCREW as this might cause a lot of trouble. Just turn until you feel the washer touch the surface then turn a just little more, same with the oil filter.)
theres my new fram oil filter (part number PH3593A)
9. put some of your 5w30 or 10w30 oil (use funnel) then measure afterwards using the dip stick and your good to go. (don't forget to put the oil cap back on)
10. put the old oil back in the new oil jug and dispose off properly. there are free drop off locations a.k.a recycling centers around the city or just drop them @ night @ walmart.
now you can sit back and watch the Olympics while you drink some cold beer!!!
***this D.I.Y is made possible with the advice of some TCC members and ADMIN.***
enjoy,
hula_balu
16-Aug-2008, 05:36 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 23,881
now it goes into the proper area
16-Aug-2008, 05:50 PM
#4
and it doesnt matter if u put the drain p[lug back on before the filter, only canister oil filters should be taking off before u put the drain plug back on cuzz only more oil comes out with the canisters
16-Aug-2008, 06:09 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Fortress of Superheroes
Posts: 7,275
Nice write-up Hula Bula 
16-Aug-2008, 08:27 PM
#8
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 459
lol yeah i used my hands to take it off. its really quite easy to take off, well i was wearing latex gloves dunno if that helped?? sorry about the "cheap" comment. you take things really personal.
16-Aug-2008, 10:43 PM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 23,881
did you lube the filter's rubber gasket with a little bit of oil like you're supposed to?
17-Aug-2008, 06:25 AM
#12
whayt cheap comment, i was just sayin cuzz usually there on soooo tight u HAVE to use a band wrench or steroids
17-Aug-2008, 09:37 PM
#13
Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 54
Good DIY...
I usually use for my DD Civic w/ a d-series motor, the S2k Filter application....
just cause I find that the filter is a bit bigger, so a very very slight increase in oil pressure, I learned it on another board..
but like I said good DIY
I usually use for my DD Civic w/ a d-series motor, the S2k Filter application....
just cause I find that the filter is a bit bigger, so a very very slight increase in oil pressure, I learned it on another board..
but like I said good DIY
18-Aug-2008, 07:50 AM
#15
but at mr lube, they work on commision so they always try to sell u a servive like transmission flushes, rad flushes and if uve done all of that htey try to make u do a "FSC aka Fuel System cleaning" its basically a bottle of the fuel injector cleaner from crappy for 4 bucks and this throttle body cleaner that u can pick up for 5 bucks and an oil suppllemant u can pick up for 2 bucks and they charge 109.99 and peopel buy it i dont understand, but thats how mr lube works people they try and sell anything and i hate it there so im leaking the secrets ahaha if udont have an avg ticket of 94 dollars per car a day ur gettin in **** and if u dont need one thing on ur car they will "reccomend" a tire roation last resort but we get commision on everything,
when u poay 39.99 for an oil change plus a 50 cent environmental fee and a 1.99 shop disposal fee they try to sell u a say honda filter for an extra 5 dollars so its now 44.99 plus tax if ur oil level is low they WILLL make u dont an engine flush whish is 17.99 do the math then taxes u dont even realize it
18-Aug-2008, 07:58 AM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Your sisters bedroom
Posts: 30,142
Pretty simple.
I dunno if its just me or the light in that picture, but your oil looks milky.
I dunno if its just me or the light in that picture, but your oil looks milky.
18-Aug-2008, 07:35 PM
#18
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 459
naw im juss letting u noe i hate working at mr lube its a rip off sorry if it seemed like i was attacking u
but at mr lube, they work on commision so they always try to sell u a servive like transmission flushes, rad flushes and if uve done all of that htey try to make u do a "FSC aka Fuel System cleaning" its basically a bottle of the fuel injector cleaner from crappy for 4 bucks and this throttle body cleaner that u can pick up for 5 bucks and an oil suppllemant u can pick up for 2 bucks and they charge 109.99 and peopel buy it i dont understand, but thats how mr lube works people they try and sell anything and i hate it there so im leaking the secrets ahaha if udont have an avg ticket of 94 dollars per car a day ur gettin in **** and if u dont need one thing on ur car they will "reccomend" a tire roation last resort but we get commision on everything,
when u poay 39.99 for an oil change plus a 50 cent environmental fee and a 1.99 shop disposal fee they try to sell u a say honda filter for an extra 5 dollars so its now 44.99 plus tax if ur oil level is low they WILLL make u dont an engine flush whish is 17.99 do the math then taxes u dont even realize it
but at mr lube, they work on commision so they always try to sell u a servive like transmission flushes, rad flushes and if uve done all of that htey try to make u do a "FSC aka Fuel System cleaning" its basically a bottle of the fuel injector cleaner from crappy for 4 bucks and this throttle body cleaner that u can pick up for 5 bucks and an oil suppllemant u can pick up for 2 bucks and they charge 109.99 and peopel buy it i dont understand, but thats how mr lube works people they try and sell anything and i hate it there so im leaking the secrets ahaha if udont have an avg ticket of 94 dollars per car a day ur gettin in **** and if u dont need one thing on ur car they will "reccomend" a tire roation last resort but we get commision on everything,
when u poay 39.99 for an oil change plus a 50 cent environmental fee and a 1.99 shop disposal fee they try to sell u a say honda filter for an extra 5 dollars so its now 44.99 plus tax if ur oil level is low they WILLL make u dont an engine flush whish is 17.99 do the math then taxes u dont even realize it
my experience with Mr Lube was just not good at all.
I went to Mr lube a couple of times with my old accord before. I wasn't as knowledgeable with cars back then. On my first oil change they "recommend" that i have an engine flush, fuel system cleaning and signal light replacement and a pcv valve change. they charged me an arm and a leg. after that they "recommend" on my next visit that they change the radiator coolant fluid for $99. I got all of those since they said that it would "benefit" my car. later on i found out that i that i could buy a fuel system cleaner at crappy tire for $5.99, an engine flush for $4.99 and pcv for $3.99 which i could change my self since accords have it right on top of the valve cover. The following oil changes i just said i don't give a crap about my car just change the oil & thats it. Now, I do my own oil changing. the radiator coolant i also did myself. thanks to forums like tcc and other honda clubs.
