imported_loudsubz

Thinking of doing this soon.

What I need to know is what exact parts do I need.

I know like the rear trailing arm assembly, and front assembly, E brake cables and MC and prop valve etc.

Does anyone have a complete list so when I go to see about the complete swap im not missing anything from it.

thanks.

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

for the rear:
Rear trailing arm and hub
Upper control arm
Compensator arms ('lil thingy that you put washers under for the rear camber trick)
Rotors
Calipers
Pads
Parking brake cables


for the front:
Lower A-arms
Upper A-arms
Wishbones
Steering knuckles and hubs
Rotors
Pads
Calipers

Remember, there is a pile of bolts and brackets as well - it's best to buy this COMPLETE!

Lemme simplify the front.... once you are ready top put parts back in, there should only be a few things remaining Civic - the axle, tie rod end, and the shock - everything else is swapped out. That's how mine was.

For the rear, EVERYTHING goes except the shocks.

Altogether, it's a really fun swap, and quite easy. Your alignment will be way off after the fact.

For powering the brakes, you want the booster, master cylinder (ITR would be best - from the dealer), and a used prop valve off any non-ABS integra (most all came with rear disks and I'm assuming you don't have ABS currently, do you?). REMEMBER, the lines/fittings on the integra parts are bigger than the lines/fittings on the Civic chassis, so you will have to reconfigure the lines with new flare fittings....

here is a link - look towards the end of the page.

http://tech.hybridgarage.com/tech/index.html

imported_loudsubz

thanks B

how do you flare the lines? what tools?

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

you clamp the line into that device, and then there is this cone shaped thingy (pardon my technical terminology, since I started working I've only gotten dumber) that latches on and you screw it in until you get a flare. Be sure to get your fitting on BEFORE you flare it (doh!) Anywho, the tool is great for all kinds of work - you can get one at CT or Sears. They are relatively inexpensive, but the better you buy, you nicer the flares will be.

imported_loudsubz

how much is inexpesnive lol

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

Don't remember exactly, but figure on about $30 or thereabouts. CT may even rent them out if I remember right.

imported_loudsubz

So to fit it to thee right size id just flare it abit, then check it in the hole, see if it fits, then flare it some more if need be? Keep doing it till the fit is right?

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

Well, no... you wanna have it right in one shot, cuz lines that you flare and then re-flare don't seal too well. Check out that link, I think the guy explains it really well in the master cylinder article. I've done this before, but not for a brake system, so I'm assuming you want to view a site where the guy has practical experience with this exact swap. Anyways, buy some extra brake line to practice with.

imported_loudsubz

didn't you put 4 wheel disc on your car b?

imported_Torrey

Sick
Matt give me a shout when you do this swap.

Maybe we can do it to both our cars at the same time

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

Ya.... SiR ones - line size is the same on all 6th gens - even the M/C and USDM prop valve were straight bolt ons. You have to use Integra parts which BTW are cheaper too.

imported_94EG6HB

If I take a full jdm sirII front and rear setup suspension/shocks/brakes everything.

And want to use a jdm type r booster and jdm type r Master cylinder..

With a rs prop valve.

Will this work for my application.?

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

the CTR units I'm not sure if they have diff't size lines, but yeah, that isht should all bolt up good and proper. See with CTRs I think they used thicker gauge sheetmetal for the body, so they knew right off the bat that they were gonna be CTRs, so they could have plumbed it with bigger lines, so I can't be sure the line size is the same. Very little info is available on the CTRs in North America. The intagra non-ABS prop valves will work with a flaring job on the lines.

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

http://tech.hybridgarage.com/tech/brake2.html

imported_94EG6HB

What approach will require the least modification of the lines?

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

The DOHC VTEC Del Sol had 4 wheel disks, right? Use that m/c, booster and prop valve, and that will likely cause the least mods to the lines. As for the susp/brake assembly, you can go ahead with the JDM SiRII parts, that doesn't really matter.

imported_94EG6HB

Last coupla questions.

SS lines for the JDM suspension should be from the usdm del sol vtec correct?

Now is prolly the time to change the bushings if desired?

I can swap over usdm lca's correct?

Legacy73

Thanks for asking all the important questions Aaron. I hope to switch my suspension over to the JDM SiR or a full ITR 5-lug conversion.

I have another question. Will my H&R sport springs and shocks work with a ITR suspension components or do I need to buy new ones.

imported_Torrey

If im not mistaken, integra and civic springs would be interchangable.

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

Tman is correct - springs carry over, shocks subject to some limitation - like the rear fork width AND style of LCA in the rear (fork or eye type).

SS lines - you mean the HARD lines Aaron, or you mean breaided SS flex lines? Basically - all the same until you get into fitting sizes... beyond that I'm no JDM *****, so you could say, don't know don't care j/k

I see no reason why you could not reuse your stock LCA in the front - the steering knuckle of the JDM vs. USDM should be identical save for perhaps the size of the caliper bracket.... but the spline count in the hub and the general geometry of your caster, camber and toe should remain the same. However, I don't know if you two have Si models or lesser ones, but to gain a front sway bar I had to use a stamped steel a-arm instead of the cast iron one that came on my car, so you may want to consider the benefit of a front sway bar at the same time when doing the swap. I'd do the bushings as well